Flying Fish and Pesto

Pics: Q's Pesto Chicken Pizza, Fishmongers throwing a salmon at Pike's Fish Market, funny sign at Pike Market, monkfish (aka poor man's lobster) sign at fish market

Just got back from Seattle, Washington, home of Pike's Fish Market where they throw fish around. Coincidentally I ate at a restaurant called Flying Fish which totally blew my mind. It was amazing, and trust me--coming from me, an extremely judgmental foodsnob, that’s quite a review. Seriously, even the cocktails rocked. So here's what I had:

Fried Oyster Caesar Salad
Smoked Cod with Horseradish
Grilled Swordfish with Spaetzle and Tarragon

Salad--I always think it very classy when restaurants serve Caesar Salad with whole leaves of romaine lettuce, although hand-shredded lettuce is also very tasteful. Each leaf was delicately smothered in a light dressing which I assume was composed of the standard caesar dressing of raw egg and anchovy. (FDA warns that women who are pregnant or nursing should avoid raw egg products.) The croutons were perfectly toasted (also hand-shredded) and the oysters melted in your mouth, not a second beyond al dente. Crispy on the outside, delicate on the inside. Heaven all around.

Cod--If there's one thing I've never attempted at home, it's smoking fish. First of all I don't have a smokehouse, and second, I don't have the time or space to build one as I live in Los Angeles. The smokiness of the cod was offset by a delicate horseradish sauce, with just enough bite to compliment but not overpower the fish. I almost came after my first bite, but then realized I was in a public space. Divine.

Swordfish--It is now politically acceptable to order swordfish. Due to overfishing, these fish were on the endangered species list for quite some time. However, this doesn't mean you should order it wherever you go. I, for one, have not had swordfish in several years, and ordering it yesterday felt very very naughty. Who’s a naughty girl? Who’s a naughty, naughty girl? The FDA also warns of potential toxicity from methylmercury in this fish. (Tuna also has high levels of this toxin.) So don't eat it every day, and if you do choose to eat it, get a steak and grill it because this fish was meant to be grilled. Yum. Or, if you're feeling fancy, slice it really thin and roll it up to make "involtini." I'll blog about that later. Anyway, the swordfish at FLYING FISH was perfect. It was served with spaetzle, which added beautiful texture to the dish as a whole. Both the fish and spaetzle gently yielded to each bite, yet held its integrity like Custer.

What blew my mind the most about this dish, however, was the tarragon part of it. Now I've made tarragon with chicken, potatoes, seafood, you name it. But I've NEVER thought to cook it whole as a side dish. Tarragon has a slightly anise scent to it, and is very subtle, which makes it a perfect herb for seafood. (That’s why you don’t put cheese on seafood—it’ll overpower it.) Anyway, the cooked herb lent a somewhat bitter green taste to the dish, which gave it a new layer of complexity. Who would’ve thought? Brilliant. Also, I drank a pale ale with it, which washed down the dish better than a pinot grigio could have. That slight accent of bitterness got me. I’m hooked. (No pun intended.)

OK, that’s enough. Next time you’re in Seattle, you MUST dine at FLYING FISH. Just don’t walk down Pike St. at night alone…CREEPY!

Wish you could have a bite,
Quyen

PS My pesto chicken pizza turned out great. The pizza stone didn’t crack, either. Here’s my own recipe for pesto. Take it or leave it. I don’t really measure anything when I cook, (only when I bake,) so if you guys want exact measurements, email me.

Bunches of washed and FULLY DRIED basil
Pignoli, or pinenuts (or walnuts if you must)
Couple cloves of peeled garlic
Fresh lemon juice
Grated parmesan or pecorino cheese
Crushed red chili flakes
Olive oil
Salt and pepper to taste

In a dry sauté pan, toast your pine nuts over low heat until the fragrance fills your kitchen and your roommates ask, “Wow, what is that amazing smell you brilliant cook?” They burn FAST, so make sure the flame is low and shake the pan frequently. Set aside to cool.

In a food processor add your basil leaves, garlic (optional), pinenuts, chili (optional), some sea salt, freshly ground pepper, and a couple of squeezes of lemon juice and blend until coarse. With the machine still running, drizzle in the olive oil until the desired consistency. You don’t want your pesto to look too oily, so stop the machine before it’s too late. I personally prefer it creamy and spreadable.

Stir in freshly grated parmesan or pecorino cheese. Taste and season accordingly. I like to store mine in a sealed container with a layer of saran wrap pressed right onto the surface to help with color and freshness. Try this with ice cream as well to prevent crystallization.

Basil tends to oxidize rather quickly, so when you notice the brownish top layer, it’s fine, just a little ugly. The acid in lemon juice helps slow down oxidization, and I also like the brighter note it brings to my pesto. If you want really green pesto to stay green, you can add Vitamin C powder to it—plus it’ll prevent scurvy. OR, you can add a little spinach to it, but I’m still scared of ecoli. Try making pesto with other herbs, or even artichokes. Enjoy!