One Potato, Two Potato, Three Potato GNOCCHI!!

Photo: Quyen's Gnocchi with Pancetta and Sage and her favorite Brunello di Montalcino. Try a simple brown butter and sage sauce for a lighter first course.

What do you do with a couple potatos? Hmm...do you slice them, boil them for roughly 7 minutes, pour sherry vinegar and olive oil over them and toss them with fresh herbs? Or, do you make gnochhi???

I'm not really good at listening to and following directions. When I was in elementary school, I received an "O" (for Outstanding) in every category except this one, where I got big, fat, ugly "N's" all the time (for NEEDS IMPROVEMENT.) Screw you teachers! I still went to college, and even graduate school!! Don't let discouraging marks stop you from pursuing your dreams, kids.

With that said, I hardly ever follow recipes, except when I bake because you kinda need to follow those carefully, baking being a science and all. But even in baking I tend to deviate.

Anyway, what I'm trying to say is...go by FEEL and TOUCH. The humidity in your house can change how much or little liquid or dry ingredients you need when you cook (and even bake!) So, live freely and it'll get you into grad school. I guarantee.

To make gnocchi, boil some potatoes, peel them, and while still warm, rice them. If you don't have a ricer, use a cheese grater. Works like a charm. (Ricing potatoes gives them a light, fluffy texture, perfect for "mashed" potatoes as well.)

Make a well in your potatoes, crack an egg yolk in it, add a pinch of salt(or full egg if you have several potatoes), sprinkle some flour over everything, and using a fork, start to combine everything, like making pasta. Add flour if too wet. Soon you'll have a lovely soft dough. Let rest, form into dowels, cut, and flick off a fork. You're ready to rock.

Wish you could have a bite,
Quyen

Maximizing your Oven - Part IV: Salmon en papillote

Photos: Julienned vegetables over salmon, packages ready for oven.

Everyone likes opening gifts right? Well this method of cooking allows every guest at your table to feel special, and it's also a one "pot" meal. No separate side dishes necessary.

It works best with heartier, thicker filets of fish such as salmon, cod, or halibut. All you need is parchment paper for the "giftwrapping" and some patience. First julienne your vegetables. This is integral to the success of the dish in both presentation and taste--since the fish only cooks for about 10 minutes, you want to make sure your vegetables cook all the way through. I like to use asparagus, red bell pepper, zucchini, mushrooms and carrots for color and texture.

Next cut out rectangles of parchment paper large enough to contain the fish when folded over. Gather some herbs together (parsley, thyme, tarragon, dill, whatever you like) and make a bed for the fish. Salt and pepper your fish, and place a little olive oil or (herb) butter over it. Arrange your vegetables neatly over the fish, maybe another sprig of herb, and wrap your package, making sure your folds are tight. Brush the paper with some oil and place in a 400 degree preheated oven for 10 - 12 minutes, depending on the thickness of the filet. Serve immediately.

Surprise! Be careful not to burn your guests with the extremely hot steam rising from your "gift." Probably better if you make a slit for your guests before serving.

Pretty and delicious. The fish should be extremely moist and succulent.

Wish you could have a bite,
Quyen

That's My Hood!!!

This is a quickie--just wanted to share an article that my friend just sent to me. Apparently, my hood is the place to eat in Los Angeles--smack dab in the middle of the Fairfax District.

Love it!
Foodsnob

NY Times Article

A SLOW Week

Photo: Quyen's beef stew served with asparagus, carrots, and garnished with parsley.

I LOVE BRAISING, stews, soups... Does that make me a lazy cook? Or a crazy cook? Whatever. I love it, and so should you. Turn cheap into luxurious--a rags to riches story every time, without fail.

This past week has been uber slow in terms in cooking. That is, long hours for every dish, and loving every minute of it. After having been spoonfed by my mom as my muscles atrophied over the holidays, I didn't think I would have missed cooking my own food so much until I got back to LA. Sure it's nice to not have to cook and have every meal--whatever your heart desired--prepared for you with absolute love, but I must say it was too easy. I can only imagine what it was like for our hunting and gathering ancestors. Any man who comes to me with a bison draped over his back will win my heart forever...or maybe a paycheck and a set of good knives will do.

Anyway, this week was ridiculous. I cooked all 3 meals every day. I was on fire. Literally...just now I made carrot ginger soup and seared mahi mahi with herb butter for lunch, and my fish caught on fire. Forget about waxing those eyebrows. I'll follow up with my carrot soup recipe later for all the vegetarians out there...

The cheap in me finds incredible pleasure in turning inexpensive cuts into gold. You can find meat as cheap as $1.99 / lb under the label "chuck" or "stew meats." I had a slight cold this week so decided to make a hearty beef stew. The secret to developing flavor lies in really really SEARING well seasoned (S&P) meat in a very hot pan, until all sides are a dark, rich brown. The rest is easy, but if you take the time to do this first step (and it does require patience), you can't go wrong.

So after you've done that, remove the meat (cut into chunks), set aside, turn the heat down and add your onions. Sweat until translucent, add the bouquet garni, red wine, carrots, add the meat back in, fill with water or stock to cover the meat by at least a third ABOVE the meat, and simmer for several hours. The meat will melt in your mouth. Perfection guaranteed. (I like to make my stews in a Dutch oven, placed in a 325 degree oven for several hours, but you can do it on the stove top in a heavy bottomed pot over a low flame.)

Try it. You'll love it. Other dishes I made will follow when I get back from (another holiday).

Wish you could have a bite,
Quyen

PS What do to with heavy cream and herbs so they don't go to waste? Make a rich dark chocolate ice cream from Valrhona 71% cacao and herb butter. Duh. Or, chop your herbs, place them in ice cube trays and water, freeze and you'll have fresh herbs all year round.

Going Against the Grain

Photo: Braised Brisket with Panko Topped Penne with Cheese and braising vegetables. (The baked mac'n cheese was made with a bechamel and grated fontina.)

I've always been a little weird. In high school I used to make vests with matching scrunchies. So maybe I wasn't so much weird as I was a NERD, but I've changed??? I'm now a FOOD nerd. And why do I digress, you ask? Well, because I know now that it's acceptable to be different, and if that means going against the grain, then damn it, go against the grain and I promise you'll never go back. I just wish someone had told me this at a younger age. I could've saved money instead of spending it on all those therapy sessions...

It's how you slice it. Last night I made a beef brisket, which I slow braised in my trusty Le Creuset cobalt blue braiser for 6 hours at 275 degrees. It would have been great at 3 or 4 hours, but the house was cold so I went until dinner time. Cut along the grain, the meat can appear stringy and tough, but once you slice it AGAINST the grain, alles gut, ja. Of course, if you totally screw up and the meat is tough all around, cutting across the grain will help but not cure your culinary disaster.

Most meat should be cut across the grain. The resulting shorter fibers means less work for your jaw, and hence more tender feeling meat. Sometimes you'll want to shred meat, as in pork shoulder roast, but when it's steak or brisket, think again(st.)

So try braising a brisket. Revive the Jewish grandmother in you. Use stock or red wine until it reaches 3/4 of the way up the meat, add some tomatoes, onions, celery, parsley, and bay leaves, and forget it in a 300 degree oven for 3 hours. Perfection, and at a cheap cost, too! Now YOU can use this extra money for your own therapy.

Buon Appetito,
Quyen

Maximizing your Oven - Part III: Roasted Garlic

Roasted garlic is so different from raw garlic. No worries about kissing anyone after slathering this onto crusty bread. It's also extremely easy to make.

Here goes:

Cut off the tops of the garlic head after peeling as much of the superficial skin as possible. Drizzle with olive oil, sea salt and freshly ground pepper. Wrap in foil. Place in the oven at whatever temperature you're roasting your vegetables for 30 minutes to an hour, depending on the temperature. It should turn a beautiful caramel color.

Remove from oven. It should squeeze out easily like toothpaste. Add some olive oil, s&p to taste and you're ready to dazzle everyone with your homemade roasted garlic oil. Add some chopped fresh herbs for additional freshness and color. Add to mashed potatoes, or slather on a whole chicken or cornish hen before roasting, or your favorite lover...it works like chocolate, except savory. What?

Maximize maximize maximize, especially now that it's "cold" here in California.

Ciao,
Quyen

Lesson Learned

Photo: I usually scrape out the gills of portobelli, especially when making a tomato sauce, as they tend to darken the mixture.

The other night I had a dinner party where I completely experimented with the entree and side dishes. Very bad idea. Usually I'm on time with dinner, but this time I served an hour and fifteen after guests had arrived. Yes, I am human, and no, I'm not perfect. However, complete disaster was averted thanks to the dishes turning out great and initially disgruntled guests leaving happy and drunk (but not too drunk to drive, mind you!)

Here's what was on the menu:

To start, a cheese and chartucerie platter consisting of parmeggiano reggiano, pecorino romano, gruyere, salame and soppresata, dried figs, crostini and homemade pesto. Thank goodness since dinner was taking so damn long!

Main course:
Roasted Cornish hens
Braised Kale
Soft Polenta with Portobello, Sage, and Pancetta

Dessert:
Pear Galette with Homemade French Vanilla Ice Cream

I was worried that the side dishes would overpower the hens, but they stood up to the challenge.

Something I've started doing lately is roasting birds with their necks and livers in the bottom of the roasting pan. I placed the hens atop onions, stuffed them with garlic, lemon, thyme, and slipped medallions of herb butter under their skins. I think next time I will sear the skins on the stove before placing them in the oven to roast, as their skins could've been browner. Even though I dried the skins best I could and rubbed them with oil, it was hard to get that dark tan without overcooking. The butter under the skin does help, however. Lesson learned.

So after removing the birds from the roasting pan, I placed the pan with the livers, onions, and necks, over the stovetop and deglazed with white wine. The roasted bits really add great flavor to the jus, as opposed to just the drippings. Try it!

I served the birds on a bed of braised kale and the soft polenta in small bowls. For dessert another disaster averted...barely. I went to my favorite store which was CLOSED, so I couldn't get my fresh berries for the galette. Instead, I had to go next door to an inferior produce mart and get some pears. I probably should've roasted the pears for the galette, but had no time, so they were a little al dente. However, the crust, a pasta frolla, was fantastic (it's made with corn meal so it can withstand juicy fillings and has that extra crunch) and of course you can't go wrong with ice cream!!!

Phew. Next time I will test recipes before serving them at a dinner party. Just another excuse to keep cooking, really.

Save those giblets!!!
Quyen

Scones: Rock hard = Bad (unless discussing abs)

Photo: Quyen's Blueberry Buttermilk Scones with Lemon Zest

This morning we had some friends visiting, so I decided to make some scones (plus I just bought some dried blueberries and wanted to use them.) Any excuse, really, to bake. Seriously, though, by the time your oven is fully preheated, your scones are ready to go in.

With quick breads, scones, biscuits, etc. it's more about technique than anything else, and that mainly entails NOT overmixing. Overmixing is for bread and pizza dough, where you actually want to develop the gluten in the flour. I know it's tantalizing handling that biscuit dough, but REFRAIN from TOUCHING. Make yourself some playdough and play with that, but RESIST the URGE to touch. You can look all you want, but don't touch. Just imagine me standing there with a wooden spoon smacking you...yeah, that's right, a little harder...what? No! Bad touch! Bad touch!

Moving on, whether you're making biscuits, scones, zucchini bread, pancakes, or other delicate treats, always stop mixing a couple beats before you think it's fully mixed. Make sure all your ingredients are COLD for scones and biscuits (room temperature for cakes, but that's another topic), and work with your fingertips quickly. And of course, your oven should be completely preheated.

Not to brag or anything, but I actually had to WAIT for my oven to preheat because I made the scones so damn fast.

Wish you could have a bite,
Quyen

PS Scones shouldn't be rock hard. They should be flaky, delicate, and moist. It's all in the hands, baby. You haven't had a good scone unless you've made them yourself (or I've made them for you, and trust me, mine are gooooooood.)

Caveat Emptor

My pyrex exploded in the oven on Thursday. I had spent 2 days making stuffing for Thanksgiving day--a whole day ahead making the cornbread and chicken stock, and then the actual prep day. Thankfully, since I was making enough stuffing for 20 people, I prepared 2 trays. I have no idea why it exploded, since I've used that pyrex hundreds of times before.

I found this on Wikipedia:

Safety issues

Pyrex, while more resistant to thermal shock than other types of glass, should never be subject to drastic or uneven temperature changes, such as when taken from the oven and placed on the stove elements (an excellent heat conductor) to cool, or immersed in cold water when hot. This can crack or shatter the dish.

However, recent reports suggest that due to the change in manufacturing, notwithstanding the claims made for Pyrex, the glassware can shatter violently and unexpectedly, even when used in accordance with manufacturers instructions. Claims have been made of severe personal injury during these events. Some reports have suggested that older Pyrex was not as susceptible to these problems as currently produced Pyrex. It is unknown whether this has anything to do with the recent change in ownership and location of manufacture of the Pyrex brand.

Crazy, eh?

Thanks for RUINING Thanksgiving Day, Pyrex.

At least some good came of it...my oven is now cleaner than it's ever been!

Thanks Pyrex. You're the best.

Foodsnob

Maximizing your Oven - Part II: Tomato Soup

PHOTO: Quyen's Roasted Tomato Soup with Basil Oil and Chiffonade

I've noticed that a lot of people don't like tomatoes. I wonder what it is about them that is unlikable. Is it the texture? The taste? I know some only like cooked tomatoes. Why? Why?

If you DO like tomatoes, though, you're in for a treat if you've never made your own tomato soup. I like to use three types of tomatoes for my soup, which I think gives it much more depth than just fresh or canned alone. Since heirlooms can be quite pricey, it's hard to find really delicious "regular" tomatoes, so I find that roasting them concentrates the flavor. Here's how I make it:

Several pounds of Roma or Vine-Ripened Tomatoes, cleaned and halved
Olive oil
Sea or grey salt
Freshly ground black pepper
Crushed chili flakes
1 12 oz. can whole tomatoes (preferably San Marzano)
Couple onions
Chicken (preferably homemade) or vegetable stock
Several large handfuls of basil leaves, washed and dried
2 heads of garlic

Preheat oven to 400 degrees. On a sheet pan spread out your halved tomatoes, and generously drizzle with olive oil, salt and pepper. Save a couple fresh tomatoes to add to the soup later. Prep your garlic heads for roasting. Cut off tops, drizzle with oil, salt and pepper, and wrap in foil. Roast tomatoes and garlic for 45 minutes to 1 hour, or until caramelized and tomato skins wrinkle. When cool enough to handle, the garlic should easily squeeze out--add a touch of olive oil and set aside. (I like to roast garlic whenever I make a savory dish in the oven...maximize baby.)

In a large Dutch oven, sweat onions and a couple cloves of fresh garlic in olive oil until translucent, about 10 mintues. Add chili flakes, roasted tomatoes, half the basil, canned tomatoes, fresh tomatoes and enough stock to just cover the veggies, and simmer for about an hour. Add the rest of the basil and blend together until desired consistency. If you have a food mill, process your soup to get rid of the skins. Be careful when pureeing hot liquids. Use a dish towel to hold down the top and work in small batches, or use a hand immersion blender.

Garnish with basil chiffonade (roll up basil leaves and slice thinly into long strips), and serve with bread or crostini and roasted garlic oil.

If you want an even richer soup, you can add the roasted garlic to the soup near the end of the simmer, and / or add a dollop of cream, creme fraiche or goat cheese before serving.

I prefer it without cream, though, for a change :)

Wish you could have a bite,
Quyen

Maximizing your Oven - Part I

PHOTO: Quyen's Espresso Gelato, made from beets...well, maybe not. OK, more heavy cream I know I know. But, the beets balance out the cream!

If I'm going to use the oven, I'm getting the most out of making the house a toasty place. A few days ago I think I completely maximized oven time--here's what I made for dinner.

OVEN-roasted Beets with Frisee and Goat Cheese
OVEN-roasted Tomato Basil Soup with OVEN-roasted Garlic
Salmon en Papillote
Chocolate Souffle with Espresso Gelato

Unfortunately, however, I forgot to charge my camera batteries, so I don't have any pics from the actual night.

Anyway, beets are fantastic and good for you. It sounds a little wasteful, but you must individually wrap them in foil before roasting. Just drizzle with olive oil, wrap, and roast for 45 minutes to an hour, or until tender. Let cool, and the skin should come right off. I use a towel for more friction. Expect to get your hands dirty, and don't be scared later on when you use the restroom...

Beets were created to be dressed with an acidic dressing. For this occasion, I made a vinaigrette of sherry vinegar, lemon juice, olive oil, and fresh herbs (parsley, chervil, and basil) which I tossed with the frisee right before serving. Other times I'll make a dressing from orange and lemon juice and zest, white vinegar, and olive oil, and also serve orange wedges (blood oranges if they're in season). They're also high in folate, dietary fiber and antioxidants.


Eat some beets!
Quyen

PS I will describe the other items on the menu in upcoming entries. Stay tuned for Parts II - IV of "Maximizing Your Oven."

I LOVE BACON

PHOTO: Bacon, arugula, tomato on toasted bagel with herb butter and freshly squeezed grapefruit juice


Recently my friend Lillian in Singapore sent me a link to this website.  Although I do love bacon, I'm holding off on buying that bacon bracelet (for now.) 

http://www.meat-o-matic.com/index.php

In the meantime, this morning I made a BLT for breakfast.  Instead of lettuce, though, I used arugula (or rocket lettuce for those of you from outer space, or South Africa).  I also made an herb butter the other day, which I spread on my perfectly toasted bagel.  It's always great to have herb butter on hand.  It'll up the gourmet factor for any meal, especially those "spontaneous" dinner parties where ya just throw somethin' together.  "Oh, I didn't have that much time to cook.  I only made a 5 course meal as opposed to a 12.  Apologies."

Here's how I make mine:

Stick of unsalted butter, room temperature
Herbs that have been fully washed and DRIED
teaspoon of Honey
Sea Salt
Freshly ground black pepper

Finely mince any herbs you may have on hand--rosemary, thyme, basil, parsley, chervil, oregano, sage, dill, etc.  For this occasion I had rosemary, thyme, basil and parsley on hand.  You can also add garlic or shallots if you'd like, also finely minced.

Combine all ingredients in a glass bowl with a spatula or wooden spoon.  If you are using salted butter, you don't need to add salt obviously.  Salt helps to preserve the butter, but you can buy unsalted and keep it in the freezer.  I always have a pound or two or butter in my freezer for those buttercream emergencies.  Buying unsalted also helps you control your sodium intake.  Anyway...

Using parchment paper or saran wrap, shape the butter into a cylindrical log using your spatula.  Roll tightly, and place in freezer or refrigerator until needed.  You'll have perfect herb butter to spread on your crusty, homemade bread, (or storebought baguette from Gelson's...YUM).  Place a medallion of butter atop grilled fish, or to finish off that wine reduction for your steak au poivre.  Off the heat, of course.

It's the little touches that count.  Basil oil, for example, which I made as well this week, but that's a future blog.

I love bacon.
Quyen

Curry in a Hurry

PHOTO: Quyen's Shrimp Curry with Cauliflower

After a long day of work, who wants to then spend a couple hours in the kitchen (besides me, of course?) One of the best quick dishes you can make is curry. Well, that is if you have all the ingredients...

Here's how I make a quick shrimp curry:

In a mini food processor, puree together garlic and ginger into a paste. Set aside. Slice a couple onions.

Heat vegetable oil in a dutch oven or heavy braising pan. Add whole cardamom, cloves, dried chiles, and allspice. Toast until fragrant. Add the garlic ginger paste and saute for another minute. Add the onions and a couple tablespoons of garam masala (you can buy at a specialty store, or curry powder at a regular supermarket.)

Sweat the onions until translucent, about 10 minutes. You don't want for them to caramelize, so turn down the heat if they start to brown. Your house should be filled with an amazing aroma by now!

Add a couple diced tomatoes, making sure to squeeze out excess juice, and also a can of coconut cream, as well as a bay leaf. Simmer until thick, about 8-10 minutes. Add a couple cups of chicken stock and simmer some more. At this point you can simmer away until your girl or boy comes home, or your guests, or that sassy neighbor you've been wanting...to have over for dinner.

Finally, when ready to serve, add your wholly defrosted shrimp, cover, and cook until just cooked through, about 5-7 minutes, depending on the size of the shrimp.

Stir in freshly chopped coriander, or cilantro, and serve with lime over rice. (To give some color to your rice, add some saffron and a touch of turmeric.)

While your curry is simmering, make a healthy side dish. For this meal I steamed cauliflower, then finished off in the saute pan with garlic, ginger, and turmeric.

Enjoy! You should be able to have delicious shrimp curry in about 45 minutes total. It's worth it :)

You CAN have a bite,
Quyen

Steal of the Day - Panna Cotta with Raspberry Coulis

Photo: Quyen's Vanilla Panna Cotta with Fresh Raspberry Coulis

In my last post I mentioned how expensive raspberries were. I spoke too soon. Yesterday, while shopping at my favorite local produce store down the street, they were selling a half flat of raspberries for $1.99. That's 14 South African Rand, 3.10 Singapore Dollars, 32,009 Vietnamese Dong. It's hectic. It's manic. I love it. I bought three. I asked the owner what was wrong with them. They were PERFECT. For a coulis, that is.

So I asked myself, what do I do with all these raspberries? I can't pass up a good bargain, whether it's clothes, food, or men. It's in my nature. Naturally, eating them fresh with a sprinkle of sugar came first. Then, a raspberry coulis:

Simmer together raspberries, sugar, water for about 10 minutes. Sieve to get rid of all the seeds and you'll be left with a thick, smooth coulis. Add a little lemon juice and / or liquer and you're ready to drizzle it over ice cream, chocolate souffle, or panna cotta, or "cooked cream." I made a vanilla bean panna cotta (because I'm in my vanilla bean phase, plus I have like, over 100 beans dying to be used).

Panna cotta is one of the easiest, most rewarding desserts you can make. You dissolve unflavored gelatin in milk, simmer it for a few minutes, stir in sugar, add vanilla steeped heavy cream, place it over an ice bath, stir until thick, strain, pour into molds and refrigerate until set. How easy is that???

Wish you could have a bite,
Quyen

PS I know it looks bad, but my diet is not comprised merely of heavy cream and berries. Heavy cream, berries, AND vanilla beans.

Ay ay ay ay-scream!

I made up a song about ice cream to the tune of that famous song, which I can't recall the name of because every time I think of it, I replace the lyrics with my own. I think it's either in Italian or Spanish...

ANYWAY, here's a picture of my ice cream with strawberry compote. I boiled together fresh strawberries, water, and sugar, then simmered until desired consistency. Near the end, I added a little lemon zest and a splash of Grand Marnier (of course) to the compote. Yum!

There are so many variables in making good ice cream, but what makes good ice cream? Below are criteria for tasting ice cream as described in the book FROZEN DESSERTS by Liddell & Weir. It is most excellent for food snobs.

Appearance: No ice crystals on the surface, even distribution of fruit, nuts, etc. Color should match flavor.

Body: Note resistance of ice cream when scooping. If too firm, ice cream will be too cold and uncomfortable to eat. Body shouldn't be waxy, gummy, crumbly, soggy, or fluffy. (Cheaper ice creams incorporate AIR into the ice cream, which is why premium and homemade creams are denser.)

Texture: Smooth. Large ice crystals present = faster melting, rough on roof of mouth. Sandy texture is due to lactose crystallization. Yuck.

Flavor: Should taste like what it is. Shouldn't be too rich to swamp the flavor, nor flavor so rich you can only have a couple spoonfuls (and not because you're on a diet, in which case you don't know what you're missing.) Pleasant aftertaste, no cooked-milk flavor, or metallic or rancidness.

Melt: Should melt to a creamy liquid, not like shaving cream, or separate or worse, curdle.

Try varying the balance between fat and sugar, and total solids and water. Since taste is subjective, you can create your own specialty ice cream. Or, just buy Haagen Dazs. Never skimp on ice cream. If you're gonna eat it, then go for it.

Wish you could have a bite,
Quyen

Save those VANILLA BEANS!!

Photo: Artichokes in acidulated water. To prevent oxidization, squeeze lemon juice in water. Drain right before use.

Photo: Preparing the custard for French vanilla ice cream.

If you have vanilla beans that have already been used to make, say, a silky panna cotta or decadent French vanilla ice cream, do not discard the used bean. Instead, rinse it off, let it dry out and throw it into your sugar jar. You'll have delicious vanilla scented sugar. If you're REAL fancy, scoop out the fresh beans into your sugar (along with the pod) and pump up that ordinary cup of joe. You'll never go back again--none of that "Vanilla Half & Half" stuff. Ugh, gross. Use extract at least, please!

Also, don't refrigerate your vanilla beans, else they will crystallize. Who wants that? Just store in an airtight container in a cool, dark place. They should stay moist and malleable...

Speaking of which, I am going to prepare my French vanilla ice cream now to go with a strawberry compote. (Raspberries are WAY expensive right now!)

On tonight's menu:

Roasted leg of lamb with garlic and rosemary
Artichokes with mint and garlic
Fennel Gratin with pecorino
French vanilla ice cream with strawberry topping

It's nice to be back in the kitchen again. I actually have been WORKING, for crying out loud. I'll let you know how the dinner turns out!

Ciao,
Foodsnob

PS Dinner was delicious, but I realized after we ate everything that I hadn't taken any pictures :( Also, the wine didn't help.

Tomato Paste Is the Bane of My Existence

I hate wasting food. I get very upset when neglected veggies go bad because I can't get to the back half of the frig because there's just too much damn crap. Sam's even worse, though, because he'll drink sour milk. He'll smell it, shrug his shoulders, and pour it into his cereal. "Eh." It's both adorable and horrifying.

Tomato paste vexes me. It's commonly sold in little cans, and since most dishes call for a mere Tablespoon or two, what do you do with the rest? Well, because I hate wasting food, I just use the whole can. Or, if I know I'm going to make something in the next couple of days with it, (since I'm crazy and plan out dinners a week in advance) I'll scoop the excess into Saran wrap and refrigerate it. Oftentimes, I'll forget about it and find a little treat weeks later...

To get rid of the "rawness" of the paste, though, you must cook it thoroughly. For example, in making my pizza sauce the other day, I started with anchovies, a mirepoix (2 parts onion to 1 part celery and onion), and tomato paste. Just make sure it doesn't burn, as it gets bitter. If you add paste to an already simmering pot of sauce, you'll never quite get rid of the rawness, but it's not so bad. It's just not gourmet. Amateur move, in fact. Your guests will be asking, "Why is there no depth to your sauce, Lillian?" and you'll respond, "What? I live in Singapore and would never make my own pizza sauce!" and I'll say, "Lillian, you must move back to Los Angeles!" and so forth. Whaaa? I digress...

I also have a tube of tomato paste, but I don't like it as much. It's never quite as fresh as the canned stuff, but it's fine in a pinch. Funny, how canned stuff is often times better than "fresh." I prefer canned tomatoes, especially, when they're out of season, although here in California it's hard to know what's in and out of season.

I've been getting recipe requests and other questions about food, and sometimes not about food. Please don't be shy. Comment away.

In the words of Jacques, happy cooking!
Quyen

Dinner with Jodie

Photo: Endless supply of vegetable skewers, drizzled with olive oil and seasoned with sea salt and freshly ground pepper

Foster, that is. OK, so I didn't REALLY have dinner with her, but she sat at the table next to ours at AOC (on 3rd St. and Crescent Heights), so that kinda counts, right? I couldn't check out her calves, though, since she was wearing pants. Apparently they're AMAZING. I must admit I was a teeny bit star struck, although I didn't start crying and hyperventilating like that one time, in band camp, Jacques Pepin came over to my table, placed his big, strong, deft hands on my shoulder and whispered into my ear, "How's the food?" in his thick French accent. Muy caliente.

Speaking of food, dinner was excellent, but I can see how it could be hit or miss, depending on the dishes you order. I would recommend getting the cheeses and the chartucerie. Most excellent. And of course, some red wine(s). Random--I recently learned on NPR that the master cheese makers in the world are mostly women.

I haven't been able to cook very much this past week. In fact, I've been eating leftovers from a BBQ we had this past weekend, so I'm on the last of the vegetable skewers. In spite of what some of you may think, I actually WORK...sometimes. I'll be out of town next week, but hopefully I'll be able to try some unique alligator dishes where I'm going.

I love sheep's milk cheese!
Foodsnob

Chocolate Rum Buttercream - Need I Say More?

Photo: Frosted Cupcakes

Sometimes a girl's gotta have her chocolate. I don't know why, and I don't understand why it's women and not men who have these cravings. Or are there men out there who enjoy a truffle every now and then? Guys? A little insight? Brycey baby?

To sate my chocolate desires, I decided to make yellow cupcakes with chocolate frosting. The cake itself, though fluffy and yummy, in this case is just a cleaner and more civil way of delivering the chocolate into my mouth (although licking chocolate from the palm of the hand is much naughtier).

To make matters worse, I grated some 70% cacao chocolate (Valrhona of course) using my Microplane over some of the cupcakes. Although providing a more complex texture to the cupcake, I preferred those without the extra shavings, as they interfered with the sexy silkiness of the buttercream. The combination of rum and chocolate makes it extra shiny like my hiny.

Wish you could have a bite (of my cupcakes, not my hiny you perverts)!
Quyen

PS In a taste test, I must admit that Butter Golden Recipes from Betty Crocker and Duncan Hines provide a fluffy, light yet very flavorful cake, and it takes a quarter of the time. So if you're lazy and uncultured, make it from the box. No one will ever know, except for snobby foodies.

Split Pea 'n Ham Soup

Photo: Quyen's Split Pea and Ham Soup with fresh thyme

I grew up in a Vietnamese household eating mostly homemade Vietnamese food with the occasional spaghetti with meat sauce or hamburgers. I'm not complaining at all, and in fact, my mom is quite the inspiration in the kitchen. However, I'd never tasted the likes of Campbell's Split Pea and Ham Soup EVER. Chicken noodle...maybe. Well, today I popped my split pea, and I'm never going back.

The best part about this soup is that it's so cheap, and it goes a looooooong way. My peas cost $1. That's 7.75 Rand. Or 1.58 Singapore Dollars. Or 50.3 Afghanistan Afghanis. It's manic. And the ham only cost $5.

Anyway, it's so good. I feel like I've really now just arrived in America. Oh wait, I was born here. It reminds me of Sam's gramma's house in southern Virginia, where we fish, hike, and shoot guns. Good times.

Back to the soup, though. It did take nearly 4 hours to make, but it was worth it. I tried drizzling in a little balsamic vinegar to contrast with the richness of the soup. Delicious. You can also try lemon. Drop a little acid. Go ahead. It's OK. Just a little.

I think I was hallucinating last night because my herbs smelled like weed and my carrots like cocaine. Weird.

OK, I'm going to make yellow cupcakes dressed in chocolate rum buttercream frosting.

Wish you could have a bite,
Quyen